Loving watching you progress on your surf journey.
Im 61 years old now and started my own journey at the age of 7 down at Harlyn on an old wooden body board and have been regularly every year since, I'm still terrible :-) But it's those moments whilst you're out beyond the break, floating, waiting, that is soooooo amazing and peaceful and good for the mind - there is no feeling like it !
I also love being churned at the bottom of a massive dump haha (more likely than not) - it really makes you feel ALIVE.
For me it's not just catching a good one its the whole thing. Have been black and blue so many times with the badges of honor :-) always makes a good story haha
Heya Lindsey,
Loving watching you progress on your surf journey.
Im 61 years old now and started my own journey at the age of 7 down at Harlyn on an old wooden body board and have been regularly every year since, I'm still terrible :-) But it's those moments whilst you're out beyond the break, floating, waiting, that is soooooo amazing and peaceful and good for the mind - there is no feeling like it !
I also love being churned at the bottom of a massive dump haha (more likely than not) - it really makes you feel ALIVE.
For me it's not just catching a good one its the whole thing. Have been black and blue so many times with the badges of honor :-) always makes a good story haha
Keep on keeping on chica - Feel the feels
love don xxx